Esperance, Hopetoun and Stokes Inlet 20th December 2013 – 7th January 2013

Esperance

We have moved on from Pretty Bay and our walking and climbing, drowning and catching no fish and getting occasionally lost to civilisation in Esperance and a caravan park not far from Pink Lake. It was a bit of a surprise after being in a National Park to be amongst holiday

makers and kids all there in their holiday spirit. The weather was still playing havoc ranging from beautiful blue sky days to arctic winds. This was the place we were to celebrate Christmas. Being our first year away from Pottsville for 20 odd years as well as our families made Christmas a little dour so we made the best of what we had. We were joined by Bonny and Barry who we first met on the Nullarbor. We had a great day taking lots of photos only to find that a few days later when I was taking the photos of our travels off my camera that they were all corrupted. We went for a few tourist drives to pink lake and even drove out across the salt but we turned around when it started to feel a bit soft. Some young Asian tourists had gone out and had gotten bogged.

They were charged $500 to get pulled out. The pink of the lake which was not pink when we were there is formed from the combination of 2 algae which give the orange/red colour.

On Boxing Day we went to see the latest release of the Hobbit, Trice and I haven’t been to the movies for many years.

We did enjoy Esperance but we had been spoilt by the magnificent beaches of Lucky Bay.

Hopetoun and Fitzgerald National Park

The Hopetoun caravan park is a rundown park right on the beach just outside one of the most beautiful National Parks, Fitzgerald National Park. It houses Mt Barren, Barren Beach, Mylie’s Beach, West Beach and others we didn’t get to. It has free camping with upmarket amenities for small tents and Wizbangers but not caravans. We spent many days going in and out of this park walking, climbing and swimming. The rock formations are a site to be seen and when combined with the blue of the water and the stark whiteness of the sand, why would you want to go back to civilisation.

 

 

 

We went looking for the start of the Rabbit fence and after driving through narrow tracks scratching the sides of John’s car we found it, now the other end at Broome.

 

New Years Eve was approaching and we hadn’t planned any parties and nor had the camp ground so we were preparing ourselves for a quiet night.

 

The next thing Trice’s mobile phone rings and it is the office wanting to know where we were. We were curious as to how that got Trice’s number as we had given them mine only but didn’t worry about it too much. The fact that they didn’t know where we were may have had something to do with the haphazard office procedure when you first book in.

One of the workers had asked me to do a sign so we assumed it had something to do with that. All of a sudden down the lane come a quad bike with a woman dressed in a pink ball gown, pink cowboy hat and giant pink teddy bear and I immediately thought that the kids had organised a singing

 telegram to brighten things up a bit. No it was MILLY the camp host from Lucky Bay coming to surprise us for new year, what a night. We laughed, I dressed up in a suit, we drank and we played Ibble Dibble which ended with me losing and being black.

Milly had driven from Lucky Bay to Hopetoun and was then going back to Stokes Inlet, we decided we had to follow her.

After 6 weeks of travelling together, laughing, drinking and having a ball, it was time for John and Wil to go to Perth. Thanks guys for a great time.

Stokes Inlet

We met up with Milly, the camp ground costs $7 per person, has brand new Stainless Steel amenities and each site is private surrounded by Bush, it is a bargain.

The only issue with this place is that it is hard to swim but it is a great place to fish. The Inlet itself is enormous and is sealed from the ocean. The sand bar only breaks through every couple of years but the fish and other sea creatures seem to flourish. We had tried to fish a few times before here with absolutely no luck.
Wandering down to the water’s edge from our camp gave us a few bites but only small black bream. So off to Young River with Milly and Jack and Pam who were also at Lucky Bay, we struck gold, it was the best fun we have had for years.

We all set off again and Trice was on fire with her catching most of the catch that day. Poor Milly, she was the seasoned fisherman but she was not having any luck. She walked up and down the rocks and no bites when all of a sudden she snags a monster and at the same time so does Trice. They are both bringing them in when Trice’s fish jumped off the hook and was making a beeline for the water.

Milly jumped to action to stop it getting away but in the excitement she saved Trice’s catch but her own also jumped off and got away, Milly was distraught. More beautiful beaches and masses of rock running out into the ocean.

Lucky Bay 14th – 20th December 2013

We left Kalgoorlie with the intention of having a free stay close to Cape Le Grand and then hitting it early the next day. We stopped at Grass Plains about 300 Kim's from Kalgoorlie, had a break and a look around and thought what the heck let's keep going to Cape Le Grand and try our luck. Cape Le Grand was full so we headed towards Lucky Bay, how lucky can we be. We pull in and we meet the camp host Milly, what a scream. She only has one site left but she said leave it with me and I will be back. Within 5 minutes she returns to let us know that 2 sites side by side will be available in the morning so as long as we didn't mind putting 2 vans on the 1 site for the night we would be sweet.

The first night we had sore faces from laughing, we caught up with Barry and Bonnie and Milly just kept us entertained.

People here are fantastic fun but how crazy is the weather, dressed in winter PJs & track suits only 11 days out from Christmas. We haven't had the best weather so far but it is sure to improve soon, at least the wind has gone.

The next day weather has turned and is beautiful. The beaches are picturesque, the colours of the water are almost iridescent and the whitest of white sand, how good is this?

We all went for a hike today across to Thistle Cove, another beautiful little bay. A bit of a tough walk, the sign did say easy, no way. John and I put a line in, Johnny caught a big Sea Pike, bloody ugly fish. Milly the camp host was over the moon as it was her favourite fish when John gave it to her, she swapped him the fish for a lollipop.

We noticed a sign which stated that Matthew Flinders named this bay in 1802 after seeking refuge from a storm, hence the name.

We decided to explore east of here and drive to Cape Arid National Park. More beautiful beaches, sandy bright and long, just gorgeous. We went for a hike around some large rocky outcrops along the coast. Time to head back to a beautiful lamb roast and a few beers, what else do you do on a Sunday night.

I needed to try and get phone service, we had found when we went for our walk to Thistle Bay that we got some service on the way back. I climbed looking at my phone, Trice decided not to climb with me and go to the beach, I had the key to the van. Still no service, so I climbed further and further until I was on top of the huge boulders on the right of Lucky Bay, phone service at last. I picked up some messages and returned a couple of calls and then the service dropped off again so I decided to head back. I had been wandering around not paying a heck of a lot of attention and then found that I didn't know where I was. I was also in my best rock climbing shoes, my thongs. For 2 hours I wandered around looking at how I could get out and each time I either came across a vertical cliff or bush that you could not get through. Finally I found a track and pushed my way through to the sand on the beach. I was embarrassed scratched and exhausted but I got out. I staggered up to the van looking for sympathy from Trice, she was not happy as she could not get into the van.

We decided to go for a swim to recover, just bliss, when John and Wilma came down in their car and asked us to go around to the other end of the bay.

What a great opportunity to take the kayak out so we went back grabbed the car and off we went along the sand.

We arrived at the far left of the cove where a memorial to Captain Flinders lies along with a massive round boulder on the water's edge. Instead of the low rolling waves in front of the camp site, we had dumpers rolling in on the beach. What the heck let's see how this kayak goes in the surf. Into the waves I go and the kayak performs well rising in the front and crashing down over the waves, I am past the breakers, or so I thought. All of a sudden these giant waves come rolling through and I am smashed to oblivion. The mornings events of getting lost and now this, what has happened to my day? Each time I tried to get back on I got barrelled again, John was standing on the beach laughing at me, I did call him a few choice names. I finally got back in, dragged the kayak up the beach to the car, sat down and went to sleep, I had had enough.

Today was the day that we are climbing Frenchman Peak, John, Wilma, Trice and me set off packed with water, cameras, mobile phones. We arrived at the parking area, the view is impressive, the mountain is even more so. The start of the walk has a sign to allow 2 hours, down the wooden decking, I am thinking to myself, this is going to be easy. We turn the corner and the incline increases quickly, heights are not my strong point. About half way into the walk Patrice is starting to have a panic attack over the steepness of the walk and the height itself, her legs start shaking and a severe desire to vomit makes her decision to sit down and wait an easy one.

Wilma decided to stay with Trice, John and I head of to the summit. It is not an easy walk but we are making good progress passing foreign backpackers going the other way. You can't help but notice the severe lack of young Aussies out here. It just seems to be grey nomads and younger foreign tourists, both singles and families. We made it to the summit after numerous stops and some searching for oxygen that has disappeared from my lungs. The climb is steep but safe and I am sure we were travelling too quickly, the view was spectacular. On our left Cape Arid, through to Lucky Bay, Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove, Cape Le Grand and Esperence. A beautiful mixture of the blues of the ocean, greens of the flora, the white of the stunning sand, greys, browns and blacks of the rocky outcrops and lines of red of the dirt roads, purely magic. Under the peak of Frenchman Peak is a gigantic cave, the whole top of the mountain is just this cap sitting on the top of the solid rock mountain. The mountain has huge fractures with large masses of rocks that look like they are ready to fall. The cave has this musty smell and is the size of a giant ball room, the view out to the ocean is framed by the opening to this giant cave.

We returned down the mountain to where Trice was and after a sit she was feeling a lot better. The total trip up and down and a visit to the cave only took one and a half hours.

Our next stop was Hellfire Bay and Little Hellfire Bay, more pristine sand beautiful blue water and large rocky outcrops extending out to the sea. This area has approximately 110 islands off the coast, here is nothing like this anywhere that I have been before.

Back to camp to have a rest and help Barry and Bonnie with their bus. We are going fishing this afternoon John promised to take Barry but I don't like our chances.

Our last night was a hoot with Milly the centre of attention, yet again. Overall the stay at Lucky Bay was the most memorable of our trip so far, plenty of lovely people and Milly the camp host was a bundle of fun. You have to take your hat off to camp hosts, it is a volunteer service and all they get is a free camp site. The toilets were kept pristine clean and she made the stay there an event of fun and adventure. Thanks Milly, you are a darling.

Norseman and Kalgoorlie 10th – 14th December 2013

Norseman

The end of the highway is a simple ‘T’ intersection at a place called Norseman, I was expecting this place to be big. You know, you are either starting the big trek or finishing it either way Norseman is this little broken down town with many of the old shops closed. Little narrow streets lead you down to the information centre and the cheapest fuel in town, no don’t like the look of it I am sure we can get to Kalgoorlie.

Off we depart for Kalgoorlie after having a bit of a wander around and talking to a few travellers and locals. I have plenty of fuel.What is happening,? the gauge is dropping a lot quicker than I expected, even the computer that was telling me that I had heaps, is now giving me warnings, the fuel light just came on, where are we? We come across a little town and spot a service station, my blood pressure is starting to drop. I look at the pump and it shows diesel at 1.23, gee that’s cheap as I had paid 1.53 at the last station. The pump is not working so Trice wanders off to the front door, it is derelict – panic again. We go around the corner to the police station who direct us to the service station just out of town, won’t do that again!

We pull into Kalgoorlie and I like this town, nice feel and the caravan park is tidy and friendly. We had been told about the Pink House on our trip and headed off the next day for a tour.

Here we are standing outside this brothel waiting for the tour when out comes the madam to see our tickets and leads us in. She is dressed in blue jeans and an I Love New York tea shirt and is late 60’s. Joining us are a husband and wife, the mother and 2 guys who I am sure got mixed up with the times for what they were after. It was very quiet as nobody other than me was saying anything, I think the husband wasn’t going to say anything and these 2 guys just sat there with this strange look on their faces. Finally the Madam decided to get everyone to introduce themselves to try and break the ice and when these guys were addressed, neither could speak English which threw the madam as she did not know what to do. Anyway we can say we were in the brothel if that is all. Interestingly the number of males outnumbering the females made it necessary to run brothels to provide a service.
These days the numbers have pretty well equalled out and a large percentage of the population are now employed outside the mines. The town is very dry but we are getting used to seeing red dirt and gravel. The next day we did the city tour where you are given a pair of headphones, a map and off you go. We walked and walked and walked and saw every little corner of this town, this was a very wealthy town in its hey day and was well represented by the odd hotel on every corner, we did try a few. Half way through the audio tour we had to leave to do our tour of the mine or “Super Pit” as it is called. A huge open cut mine where they mine for gold, a massive operation around 3.5klm by 1.5klm and some 600 mtrs deep. Monster trucks and diggers are everywhere, 2 double fuel takers come in twice a week just to top of their fuel reserves.

It was here that we hear “Mike” being called – Bonnie & Barry (the couple we met the Nullarbor) are on the same tour.  On entering the site by the bus you certainly get the feel that safety is high on the agenda when you see a Hilux Ute flattened by a loaded dump truck to demonstrate what happens it you are not careful.
The site is enormous, standing on the viewing deck massive dump trucks looked like ants winding their way down the sides of the giant pit. We were shown the extracted gold and instead of being a lustrous, is it this dull grey and about the same consistency as wet sand being dropped. As gold has alwayon s been the basis for Kalgoorlie, the ‘Superpit’ has tried to embrace the community. It has done this by painting one of these huge trucks Pink for Breast Cancer, one Blue for Prostate Cancer also had the local school children cover one with their hand prints.

We were very fortunate to witness a triple blast at the mine – this only happens 3 times a year. Instead of just 1 large explosion, when the time is right they load it with 3 large charges. The whole of the East face of the mine just erupted and poured down like a giant brown waterfall. Spectacular – viewing – thanks Wil for finding out about this.

We went for a drive north to find the ghost town of Goongarrie – there are lots of these so called ghost towns along the highways of the gold fields.  What was once a thriving little town was now just 3 buildings along side the railway & not 1 resident. We then went to find the Goongarrie Station, which we did, but all that was there , were two graves. On the way back we stopped in at another small (I mean real small) town – Broad Arrow – only a pub here. This town used to have a population of 16,000 in 1901 by 1903 it had dropped to a mere 1,000 – now it has a population of 4, the family that run the pub – The Broad Arrow Tavern.  A unique little place, it is very hard to find a bit wall, fixture or even furniture that doesn’t have a signature or message written on it – so yep, Trice & I left our mark too. When you visit mine is on the door frame coming in and Trice’s is on the footrest at the main bar.

A bit closer to Kalgoorlie we find the Bush Two Up.. Another interesting sight! Especially the toilets..     `

Crossing the Nullarbor 8th – 10th December 2013

The Nullarbor Crossing

We had heard so much about the Nullarbor, windy, no water nothing to see, boring. We found it amazing. We headed off from Perlubie Beach and into Ceduna for a fuel fill, water top up and preparation for the journey. We had set up for our freestay at site 669 about 150klm from the Western Australian border right in the middle of the Great Australian Bight. We were lucky we had a tail wind and the car and van was just cruising along.

We pulled into the Great Australian Bight Marine Park. When we walked down the myriad of pathways and wooden decks and saw the bight for the first time it took our breath away, it was unbelievable to see the cliffs and size of these cliffs - the Bunda Cliffs.

If Australia broke away from Antarctica all those millions of years ago, little has happened to cover the scars, this is savage. The height of the cliffs was far more than I had imagined. Our freestay was perched on top of one of these cliffs.

Flies were an issue but the experience was well worth it. We dropped into lookouts all the way through to the Western Australian border where the cliffs started flattening out.

We could not help but notice that South Australia is not that highly populated. Once you get past Port Augusta, there is very little in the way of population, it is just kilometres of bush. The cliffs settle down and next thing we were in Western Australia. I know why the meaning of Nullarbor is ‘treeless plain’,there is not much out here but it has its own personality. The changing landscape and distance just makes this interesting as we don’t have anything like this in Queensland. Our next challenge was the longest straight in Australia, all 146 klm of it and it is straight and

 flat. We hardly started and came up on a wide load which took up about 2/3 of the road. I looked at trying to get around but they were travelling at around 80k/hr so we just sat back and went along for the ride.

We searched out the CB channel they were chatting on and joined in with their conversation, a lot of cheek was going back and forward with Trice renaming them Katut. They were making comments about a blonde in a rest area and Trice said “Keep your eyes of the road Rhonda”, well it just went from there. The back load had a large overhang on the side which is what prevented us from passing. Next thing a car and caravan coming from the other direction mustn’t have been watching or just going too fast but he came off the road slid down the embankment around a guide post and managed to get back up onto the road without losing much speed at all, it was a great recovery but he was very lucky. You hear many stories of caravans being just a pile of rubbish on the side of the road from similar events.

We pulled into our freestay and met an older couple Bonnie and Barry who are travelling around in their bus, they are a lovely couple who were heading in the same direction as us.

At the end here we will turn right and skip up to Kalgoorlie.